Gearing Up: What to Wear

It was chilly out there this morning, a reminder that, while spring is here, it's not summer yet.

Selecting riding clothing can be tricky. You want to be warm enough, but not too hot. You need to protect yourself from the weather, but be comfortable.

Step 1: Base Layer

The most important attribute of your base layer is that it should not hold sweat. In cool weather, retained sweat will make you cold. In hot weather, retained sweat may give you a rash. 

In short, your base layer should not be cotton. Athletes refer to "killer cotton" for the above reasons.

Having said that, I wear cotton underwear, and have never experienced a problem.

Step 2: Outer Layer (Warm Weather)

When it's warm out, the main rule is to be comfortable. A lot of guys like to go shirtless, but on a sunny day it's easy to lose track of time and end up with a bad sunburn. Unless your ride is limited, wear a shirt. Even if you go shirtless, take one with you in case you want to stop at the store to refill your water.

Shorts and short sleeves are ideal unless you're very sensitive to the sun. If you're not likely to burn in the time you'll be out, direct sun exposure is beneficial because it produces vitamin D, converting some of the cholesterol in your capillaries. You'll get more vitamin D from sun exposure than you will from supplement pills, which may not contain any vitamins at all.

If you wear long pants, wear something with elastic cuffs, or use a rubber band to bind the ankles, especially on the right. You don't want your pants catching in your chain.

Step 3: Outer Layer (Cool Weather)

It can be tricky to pick the right clothes in spring and fall, when one half of your commute can be below freezing, and the other half can feel like summer. 

I've found the best combination to be a lightly-lined coat, a warm liner or front-zip sweatshirt, and a pair of neoprene cycling pants. I've got a thin beanie that fits under my helmet, and a pair of light earmuffs that connect behind my neck, as well as a pair of light lined gloves.

You'll definitely want a backpack, panniers, or some other type of carrier for this weather so you can stow your cool-weather gear in the afternoon. You can see my rear storage in the picture at right.

Having a front zipper on your outer layer is important in this weather so you can adapt as it warms up.

Step 4: Cold weather

It's April, and most of us don't want to think about winter anymore, but here's a brief overview of how to stay warm when it's cold.

When it's more than a couple of degrees below freezing, I trade my cycling tights for lined ski pants. These suit me down to about -25°C. If it gets much below that, or if it's very windy, I add a pair of longjohns, which keep me warm into the minus thirties.

On top, I wear a long-sleeved polyester T-shirt (no cotton!) under a winter coat with a fleece liner.

When it's very cold, I skip the helmet and wear a full balaclava under a heavy knit toque, with a pair of ski goggles to shield my eyes. That's an addition from this past winter, and it's a lifesaver. Previously, I'd squint against the wind and blink constantly to keep my eyelashes from freezing together. On my hands, I wear heavy ski mitts.

Step 5: Your Feet

I've neglected to mention foot coverings so far, mainly because I wear the same thing year-round. I work in an industrial environment, so I have to wear safety boots. I buy safety hikers so they're wearable elsewhere, and I find they're good in any weather. Even though they're insulated, my feet don't get too hot in summer, and my commute is short enough that my feet don't freeze in winter. If you're commuting a long distance in very cold weather, insulated rubber boots are worth the investment.

More important than your shoes are your socks. Once again, avoid killer cotton or you'll have blisters before you've gone 10 km. For socks, nothing is better than wool. My favourite socks by far are Wigwam Trail Mix Fusion socks that I get from Mountain Equipment Co-Op. They've got a polypropylene liner built in, and they're comfortable from -30°C to +30°C. And they last. 

Now that you're geared up, next time I'll start talking about your bike. I'm still taking it easy on the tail end of this cold, so today's stats reflect my minimum commute distance:

Ride to work this morning: 5.87 km

April month to date: 257.85 km

2016 year to date: 874.75 km

Total on this bike: 8988.34 km

Sometimes you have to take a break

I've been away from posting for the last few days. Last week I was battling a cold, but still staying on the bike. Then on Thursday, it hit me like a hammer. I was exhausted. My head and my muscles ached. I would have gone home sick except I didn't think I could ride 6 km.

Fortunately, I was well enough to ride home by the end of the day, but I took the shortest route home and took the weekend off from cycling.

It's good to push yourself to ride more often, and to ride longer routes, but when you're sick you've got to take it easy.

Here are some factors to consider when you're deciding if you really want to go out:

• Is your throat sore? When you're exerting yourself, you'll breathe much harder, and tend to breathe through your mouth. If you've got a sore throat, heavy exertion can make it much worse. This is a strong signal to take it easy.
• How congested are you? A little bit of congestion isn't a big deal. Within a few minutes of riding, it will probably clear up until you stop. But heavy congestion can make a ride very unpleasant, and will get much worse after your ride.
• How do your muscles feel? Mild muscle aches shouldn't keep you off your bike, but noticeable aches and muscle fatigue are a sign you should slow down.
• How's your temperature? If you've merely got a cold, being a degree warmer than normal isn't a huge concern, but if you've got a fever, STOP and see your doctor.

If you have any doubt about whether you're well enough to ride, see your doctor.

Today's riding stats:

Ride to work this morning: 5.87 km

April month to date: 234.37 km

2016 year to date: 851.27 km

Total on this bike: 8964.86 km

Trip Report: River valley, Whitemud & Terwillegar

I'm going to put off my next advice posting and write a trip report today. Yesterday's weather was warm with low wind, perfect cycling weather, so I decided to take a detour on the way home from work. That detour extended my minimum 6 km commute to nearly 30 km, with lots of views and hills.

Part 1: Getting to the river valley

For online security reasons, I'm not sharing exactly where I live and work, so I'll start this report vaguely close to my starting point. The first leg of my ride was unremarkable, riding north on 97 Street from 51 Ave to 63 Ave. This street has a dedicated bike lane for most of this distance, but road construction currently narrows the road. 

Safety tip: When riding down a narrowed lane, ride in the middle to prevent vehicles from trying to pass you unsafely, the move to the side when the lane widens out again.

At 63 Ave, I turned west onto the north service road. This route took me past the bike shop I always use, Velocity Cycle at the corner of 63 Ave and 99 Street. 

West of 99 Street, the cycle route continues on a wide sidewalk. In Edmonton, most 2.5 m sidewalks are designated as bike routes. I detoured south of 63 Ave before deciding I wanted to stay on the north side and head toward 106 Street.

106 Street is a designated bicycle route through most of the south side. It alternates between a designated lane and a shared lane, so watch the markings to see what the protocol is in each section. It's a great route, without a lot of traffic even at rush hour.

I turned west onto 76 Ave, another designated cycling route. This is also a very rideable street, although it has more traffic as you approach 114 Street, the main route to the University of Alberta.

At 114 Street, you have a choice: You can cross on 76 Ave, or you can use the pedestrian underpass. I chose the latter, having never taken it before. From there, 76 Ave quiets down again, leading you straight to Saskatchewan Drive and the river valley.

Part 2: Belgravia to Whitemud

When I reached the river valley, I took an unintentional detour, heading down the first path I found. Unfortunately, that led me to a hardcore mountain biking trail, which I didn't want, so I made my way back up the hill to the paved trail. Just south of my departure point, the paved trail heads down into the valley to the south.

It's tempting to let yourself speed up as you coast down into the valley, but be aware that there are a lot of pedestrians on the trail, so ride your brakes and give them the right of way.

This section of the river valley trail system takes you past Whitemud Equestrian Park, a small horse ranch in the middle of the city, before reaching Whitemud Creek. My intention was to follow the trails up the creek, but as I approached the trailhead near the Alfred H. Savage Center, I saw a sign stating that there are no bikes allowed in the nature preserve area. Always obey signs that restrict bike access!

The picture above was taken near the trailhead to the Whitemud Creek trails, and shows one of the pedestrian stairways that lead down into the river valley. Some of these stairways are bike friendly, as they include a narrow ramp on either side that makes it easier to walk your bike up or down.

Part 3: Around Fort Edmonton

No trip in this area would be complete without a picture of "Edmonton's Balls", a work of art that sits beside the south end of the Quesnel bridge. Actually called the Talus Dome, this controversial sculpture consists of 900 stainless steel balls. It has been vandalized twice, once when someone painted a smiley face on one of the balls, hinting at a way to improve the $600,000 sculpture.

My route took me around the south side of Fort Edmonton Park, an urban park that takes visitors on a tour of the city's history, from the original fort to the 20th century. The best way to explore this park is to take the steam train to the fort, then work your way forward in time until you get back to the entrance.

The path around Fort Edmonton is an easy climb through one of the city's many forested areas. When you reach the road at the end of the path, you have another choice: Head down the street to the Fort Edmonton footbridge or head uphill to Whitemud Road. I chose the latter.

Part 4: Whitemud Road to Terwillegar Park

After climbing out of the valley, a short stretch through a narrow path brings you to Whitemud Road. The first stretch of this road is a very affluent area, with huge mansions on vast estates. Further along, the houses are simply large.

After riding on the street for several kilometers, the route veers off onto a temporary rough-surface path. Part of the main trail is interrupted here due to the construction of a the Terwillegar Park Footbridge, which will connect Oleskiw Park to Terwillegar Park.

Terwillegar Park is a sprawling open area, great for dog owners. It includes a large network of rough-surface trails suitable for cyclists and pedestrians.

Part 5: Rabbit Hill Road

Rabbit Hill Road is bike-friendly for its entire length. The first stretch from Terwillegar Park is a steep climb that levels off as you enter a residential subdivision.

At Riverbend Road, just as Rabbit Hill Road starts to get busier, there is a cycling path on the north side of the road that extends to Terwillegar Drive, where it switches to the south side. Unfortunately, I managed to pick the wrong side of the road on both sides of Terwillegar Drive. 

It's a nice drive, but there's little to say here because it is just a road. Fortunately, the next stretch is much better.

Part 6: The Power Line Trail

This is my favorite east-west route in the south end of Edmonton. It covers a long stretch of the southwest corner of the city, and is quick and straight, despite not being alongside a road.

My starting point on this section is not the west end of the trail. It continues westward all the way to the river, where it leads to a footbridge slung under the Anthony Henday highway. But my route led quickly to one of the most scenic areas in the south end, the Whitemud Creek ravine. 

Before riding down into the ravine, make sure your brakes are working properly, and be ready for a steep climb on the other side. Like most trails, there are always pedestrians when the weather is nice, so don't count on gaining enough speed to carry you partway up the other side. 

Safety tip: Never speed past pedestrians or slow bikes. Always slow down close to their speed. Other trail users may move unexpectedly, resulting in a collision that could send someone to the hospital. Besides, speeding past another trail user is simply poor trail etiquette. If you're not prepared to exert the full effort to climb out of the ravine, pick another route.

This trail continues eastward all the way to 106 Street, where I turned south, following the curve around the Ermineskin neighborhood to 23 Ave.

Part 7: 23 Ave to Millwoods

Now for the home stretch. 23 Ave includes a bike path along most of its length. After the valleys and ravines on this ride, this urban pathway was an easy conclusion, the only hill being the rise over Calgary Trail/Gateway Blvd. If shopping is your thing, this route passes north of South Edmonton Common, south Edmonton's main commercial area. 

After crossing 91 Street, I rode along the temporary path on the south side of 23 Ave that bypasses one of Edmonton's permanent construction areas, part of the rehabilitation of the drainage system in Millwoods. Finally, after riding through Millwoods, I was home.

Next time I'll get back to some advice on getting started. For now, here are today's stats:

Ride to work this morning: 12.76 km

Extended ride last night: 29.86 km

April month to date: 204 km

2016 year to date: 820.9 km

Total on current bike: 8934.49 km

Before the Ride: Medical/Safety Disclaimer

Before I get started with any real advice on how to take on regular cycling, I guess I'd better talk about health and safety, and how your current health may affect your plans.

Talk to your doctor before starting any new exercise plan.

You're not necessarily asking your doctor's permission. If you're committed to cycling, you'll probably do it whether your doctor recommends it or not. But make sure your doctor is aware that you're starting a cycling regime, and stay in touch frequently if you have underlying health problems that may get in the way, especially cardiovascular problems. You may decide that having a heart attack on a bike trail is better than having one on the couch, but make sure you're aware of your condition.

Be aware of traffic hazards and bylaws.

Depending on where you live, you may have access to an extensive network of cycling paths. Or you may have none, and be forced to ride on roads or sidewalks. In most municipalities, bicycles are required to ride on roads or designated bicycle routes, not on sidewalks. Some cities have extra-wide sidewalks that allow cyclists. Read up on your local laws when you're planning routes.

When you're riding in traffic, be conscious of the limitations of laws that give cyclists the right-of-way in certain situations. The heaviest bicycle is a fraction of the weight of the lightest car--you will never 'win' a collision. Remember the old epitaph:

Here lies the body of William Gray,

Who died defending his right-of-way

He was right, dead right, as he sped along,

But he's just as dead as if he'd been dead wrong. 

 And you have to realize that cars, for the most part, won't see you. It's not that they can't; they simply won't. You should wear bright clothes, and should absolutely have lights and reflectors whenever it's not broad daylight, but even as you're making yourself as visible as possible, ride as if you're invisible. You're responsible for steering clear of vehicles, because if you don't... see above.

Keep your bike well maintained.

If you're riding along a lonely rural road, the last thing you want is to be stranded by a mechanical problem. Carry a spare tube and a small tool kit, and know how to change a tire and make minor repairs. If you're not an experienced bicycle mechanic, take your bike to a good bike shop regularly to make sure nothing is ready to fall apart. You won't prevent all breakdowns--if you ride long enough, something is going to break--but you can reduce the chance of nasty surprises.

That's all for today. Next time I'll talk about my bike, and give you some advice on selecting a bike that's right for you.

Today's stats:

Yesterday's ride home: 6.32 km
This morning's ride to work: 12.76 km
April month to date: 161.38
2016 year to date: 778.28 km
Total on current bike: 8891.87 km

Introduction: Welcome to Cycling Over the Hill

This blog is dedicated to everyone of a certain age who owns a bike, would like to ride it more, but just can't seem to get around to it. Or think that cycling is for young people. Or think the weather never cooperates enough to go for a ride.

My "certain age" is 46. I was born at the tail end of 1969. Before Woodstock. Before the second moon landing. Back in the days when some people were still waiting for color TV and the Internet was a small network used by scientists and the US military.

If you're my age and think it's too late to start cycling, I say bullcrap. It's never too late. I started cycling to work regularly just three years ago. I ride to work every day, in any weather, all year round. You don't have to go to that extreme to be a regular cyclist, but commuting by bike is the best way to get yourself into a regular exercise habit.

We didn't have much of a winter here in Edmonton this year, but I've ridden in temperatures below -30°C, winds gusting up to 100 km/h, and downpours that had me riding through a constant puddle all the way down the block. Weather isn't an excuse to stay off the bike.

What do you need to become a regular cyclist? The short answer is, a bike. That's it. If you want to get the most out of your riding, there are other items and practices that will help, but all you need to get started is a bike. Any bike. Even a piece of crap from Walmart. Wayne Gretzky didn't start playing hockey with a $150 stick. Michael Jordan didn't start shooting hoops in $300 shoes. If you've got a bike, you can ride.

Next post, I'll cover some of the items that will really help out once you've spent a bit of time on the road and committed yourself to regular cycling. For now, here are my stats for today:

This morning's ride: 6.91 km
April month to date: 142.3 km
2016 year to date: 759.2 km
Total on current bike: 8872.79 km